ARP Wheel studs on Honda hubs Explained!

This is in reference to ARP extended wheel studs for Honda/Acura applications. The part # is 100-7708. They are ARP100-7708 at Summit Racing and can be had for ~$12 for a 5 pack. (Less then 1/2 the cost of those 'other' units)

They are sold under the description "GM: Camaro, Firebird, Corvette, late GM, 12mm,1.5 thread x 2 1/2 in. long, .509 in. knurl diameter, wheel studs."

[Guy Gladden] The stock wheel studs are just a bit short and I want to replace them with longer ones. I had a web site bookmarked but now I can't find it. Stock studs are something like 37mm long and I'd like something around 45-50mm. Anyone know where to look?

[Mark Johnson] Since those are sold 4 to a pack and are $5/each [The Skunk2 studs] I think you can do better for less at ARP - look for the ones sold for the Corvette, they are 12mm X 60mm long and I use them on all the racng NSX's. The knurls they have will take industrial air guns too. Available at your local racer shop.

[Stephen S. Sakai] Dont get the zspeed/skunk2 studs. you WILL have problems with the nuts galling, stripping and eventually getting stuck onto the stud forcing you to cut it off. even antiseize doesnt help.

[wchian1@attbi.com] I've used the Zspeed extended wheel studs and I would not recommend it. I twisted a few of them off with my torque wrench when I tried to torque them a bit over spec. Here is a pic I just scanned:

[Guy Gladden] I looked at the ARP studs. A little longer than I want but I guess that just means a little more machine shop time. Question is has anyone actually installed the ARP studs into Type R hubs? Is the knurl size the right size? ARP studs were designed for Camaro's and Corvettes so it's hard to imagine that GM and Honda would use the same size.

[Stephen S. Sakai] The hub will need to be machined a bit to open up the holes.

[Mark Johnson] Yes they are bigger - they are bigger to get a bigger bite of the hub to withstand the stress of a monster air gun. They work fine in our NSX's and if I ever have the hubs off the ITR I'll stick them on there too. Once you put them on you are stuck with them - as you noted the knurls is a larger diameter than the OEM. Having them trimmed to length for you should not cost that much if you don't want to use open faced nuts.

[Mark Johnson] We stick a couple of grade 8 12mm washers over the stud once it is in the hub and then put a grade 8 nut on the stud and pull them into place with an air gun.

the order of assembly (bottom to top):
stud
hub
2-3 washers (so they can spin on each other)
nut
air gun

They are installed using an impact gun, which pulls the knurl into the hub. These are a one way installation, but then again, spot welding skunk 2 studs insn't easily reverable either. Remove the wheel hub and then press out the stock studs. Place the ARP studs in, place two hardened washers ont hem, and a grade 8 or higher nut. Then hammer away. It only takes a few seconds, and the knurl pulls into the hub quite well.

They may be slightly out of alignment initially, but after mounting some wheels/tires and driving around for a few days, I found that they aligned themselves perfectly and are nice and parrallel now.